BRAND & PRODUCT
WORKERS Deluxe Pocket Tote Bag/ Dark Navy x Green Handle/Short
Based in Okayama, the menswear brand "WORKERS" is built on the concept of creating "authentic replica wear" born from an overwhelming passion for vintage clothing (workwear, traditional, and military).
This is the third iteration of the Deluxe Tote.
The changes this time are the mounting width of the handles and the exterior pocket. The original Deluxe Tote comes in size M and size L; the difference is that the M size has a narrow handle attachment (no outer pocket), while the L size has a wider one (with an outer pocket).
For this version, I've arranged it so the body is size M, but the handle mounting position and outer pocket follow the original L-size specifications. In other words, I've mixed the specs. Along with this, I created two types of handles: short and long. With the original narrow attachment width, it was difficult to get your shoulder through even if the handles were long. By widening the attachment width, the long handles are now very easy to use.
There is one small change from the previous version. The handle tape has been changed from acrylic to a cotton-spun rayon tape made on a power loom, which is thicker than ever before. Through my familiar process of "searching and searching," I finally found a manufacturer (surprisingly, in my own neighborhood). I finally have a clear understanding of the parts that were previously unclear when dealing with suppliers. Even if you just say "tape," the texture changes significantly depending on the equipment and thread used. Even within the same category from a supplier, the looms are actually different. The tape this time is the sturdiest one yet.
"Cotton/spun rayon" refers to "staple fiber," which is "spun rayon" or "short-staple rayon."
The dimensions are 34cm wide, 16cm deep, and 31cm high. This is the so-called M size. The short handles are about 30cm long, and the long handles are about 60cm.
For the handles, I've sewn the same fabric as the bottom onto the tape. This is done with a twin-needle sewing machine, folding the left and right edges of the fabric while ensuring it stays centered on the tape. Because equipment is everything, I visited the factory in Northern Kanto again for this.
Of course, it is Made in Japan.
Since I've been there three times, the president finally remembers my "face." He probably only vaguely remembers the brand name, but the production manager, M, likes the WORKERS bag so much that he bought one, so that's fine.
This "getting the factory to remember you" is unexpectedly important. There are things you just can't write down in a specification sheet—the thread tension, the cleanliness of the finishing, the raw edges. Unless they judge it by knowing "I bet he likes this kind of craftsmanship," you won't get that "This is it!!!" finish.
The side gussets are folded and sewn so that the edges alternate. This acts as the skeleton of the bag, allowing it to stand on its own even when empty.
The body is made of #4 canvas, which is equivalent to 20.8 ounces.
The bottom and the part attached to the tape are made of #11 canvas, which is 12 ounces.
It weighs about 600g.
With this tote bag, I didn't want to make an exact replica of the original; I wanted to "make something that approaches the original using Japanese standards, and in some cases, even surpasses it."
I think the cleanliness of the stitching completely surpasses the original. That is the hallmark of a Japanese sewing factory.
The fabric grain is beautiful, and the tape is supple and easy to hold.
However, the original has its own appeal—the roughness and toughness of the fabric and parts. The sewing is so rough that it’s almost "as long as it doesn't break, it's fine." That, in itself, has a certain flavor.
Different countries result in different finishes. Please enjoy those differences.
